Live and Learn
If nothing else, living aboard is a constant source of new practical information. For instance, did you know that while landing a motored zodiac on a beach in two foot breaking waves is simple and straightforward, disembarking from that same beach can be deceptively difficult?
The strong northwesterly winds that started early this morning had us bobbing around quite a lot, and while Miya put up a brave face for a few hours eventually it became clear that she'd be a lot more comfortable (and get more work done) on the shore. We dressed in full foul-weather gear, bailed out the dinghy from the night before, and aside from the tricky part - getting down from the tall side-decks of Tie Fighter into a dinghy that's rising and falling almost a meter with every wave - the trip to shore went smoothly. We gunned the throttle on the down slope of a cresting wave about three meters from shore and surfed gently onto the beach, tilting up the outboard motor on its hinge just before the blades hit the sand.
I bid Miya farewell and started to drag the zodiac into the water but the first waves met crested up and over her bow, dropping a few inches of seawater into the little boat. I laughed it off and pushed through anyway, dipping a paddle into the water to taker her out to sea the required three or four meters so that I could start the outboard motor without the propellor hitting the sand. To my surprise and alarm, the blade of the little collapsable paddle snapped cleanly off with my first stroke, and I watched as the plastic blade sank quickly to the bottom. Another set of larger waves took the zodiac sideways and shorewards, and then a larger-still wave broke over the side, filling the little boat almost to the gunwales and pushing her heavily onto the sand. I jumped out, and with Miya's help dragged her up a few feet up the beach.
They say that the definition of insanity is to do the same thing over and over while expecting different results. For the next ten minutes or so I must have appeared certifiable to the slowly-gathering onlookers, though I couldn't figure out any other way to get back to Tie Fighter! Without a paddle to help take the boat out past the breakers, the timing would have to be perfect - I'd have to wait for a calm(er) set of waves, push the dinghy out just past the breaking waves, jump in, and try to get the motor started while the dinghy was still in deep enough water. By the fourth try, I was having good luck getting out far enough, but for one reason or another the pull-start of the outboard just wasn't starting! A dozen or so rapid pulls and the motor finally sputtered to life... just in time for the waves to push me ashore and flood the boat again.
After a fifth attempt, Miya pointed out that I'd torn the crotch completely out of my cheap yellow rain pants. I swapped pants with Miya and gave it another shot - I pushed the little boat out as far as I could, then tried to jump in... my timing this time was poor, and a wave chose that exact moment to crest just past the dinghy, causing the undertow to drag the dinghy out from under me as I jumped. I was now hanging on to the side of the dinghy with my legs in the ocean up to my upper thighs. My rain gear protected me somewhat, but all I could think of was how much harder it would be to stay above if my tall rubber sailing boots were to fill with water. I scrambled aboard as fast as I could, with the water only soaking me to my knees, dropped the propellor into the water, and pulled the starter... and it started!
I motored off the beach slowly, standing in 20cm or so of cold ocean water, soaked and feeling somewhat ridiculous. I made my way back to the safety of Tie Fighter, and Miya watched from the beach until I climbed aboard, on the off chance the Gods of the Sea weren't done with me for the day and something else terrible happened. It is painfully clear that whoever coined the phrase "up a creek without a paddle" - although clearly 'river folk' - was on to something, probably as a result of a bad experience.
You know what they say about experience: it's the best way to avoid mistakes... and the only way to get experience is to make mistakes. I'm going to chalk today's events up to "gaining experience".
Christmas Winds
We've been anchored out in the Kitsilano Anchorage for two weeks or so now, and we're slowly getting used to the isolation again. Ever since we switched to a Zodiac inflatable dinghy with a 4hp Mariner outboard, I've grown somewhat lazy about rowing to shore, and since there's nowhere to securely dock the Zodiac at Kits Beach, I've been finding reasons to avoid leaving the boat during the day. Honestly it's not so bad, but the combination of rowing, dragging the rowboat up 150m of steep, wet sandy beach and cycling everywhere has me not particularly worried about that little extra layer of Christmas padding around my middle.
Just before getting the boot from False Creek by the VPD, we had a really interesting night of weather, resulting in a dragged anchor and a surprised crew. The night started off like any other cold, rainy December night, with strong winds from the east - Tie Fighter swung back and forth on her anchor line but held fast as expected. We anchored just off the tip of Charleston Park and settled into the forward cabin for a cozy night with a laptop full of movies and the diesel furnace blazing, but after about an hour of steady rainfall and increasing winds I thought it would be best to set an anchor-drag alarm on the GPS. Not twenty minutes later, the winds had continued to rise and the alarm went off, but we only dragged about ten meters to the west before setting firmly in place, ostensibly for the rest of the night.
About an hour later, things started to get weird. The rain pattering on the cabin roof became noticibly noisier, but then abruptly... stopped? Suddenly - in the span of maybe ten seconds - the wind died down to nothing, completely switched directions 180º, and started back up even stronger than before!
With the new westerly winds pushing her sideways, Tie Fighter swung around on her anchor rode and wandered to the east, uprooting her primary anchor again and resetting it pretty much immediately. I can only assume the new anchor setting wasn't as strong as the prior, because within an hour the anchor-drag alarm was shrieking again and we were drifting east. To the credit of the CQR-and-Fortress anchor combo, we only drifted a few feet before coming to a stop.
Anyhow, since that night we've been sitting at anchor out in Kitsilano again, and we've endured a few nights of seriously heavy winds - though nearly all of those winds have been from the northeast through the southeast, we haven't logged any winds at all from the west! That is all about to change of course; late tonight the forecast has us seeing 15-25kn of northwesterly winds.
The water out here in Kits is a lot more active, with winds throwing up small wave systems and the passing Granville water taxis sending regular wakes our way to the tune of about two foot waves. We bounce around a lot more - never enough to actually cause a cup of coffee to spill or anything like that, but enough that the flashlight hanging from the hook by the bed is slowly leaving a crescent-shaped black mark on the wall. It's not much motion, but it's constant. I quite like it, though I could certainly see how it could be a source of frustration for anyone not prepared for it.
Miya has held up admirably - we had worried that she'd have a hard time acclimatizing to the realities of living aboard a poorly-insulated sailboat in the winter, especially when she can be somewhat prone to motion sickness, but she has adapted extremely well. Barely two months aboard, and the other day at breakfast I had to point out to her that it was cold enough in the aft cabin that we could both see our breaths - neither of us had noticed the cold at all!
Moving forward, we have a few interesting project on the go, with a new diesel furnace for the aft cabin right up in the foreground. With any luck, all we need to do is acquire a bunch of diesel hoses and a small tank and the dampness problems we've been seeing in the aft cabin will be a thing of the past. The shift from the large diesel cookstove in the aft cabin was a great boon to our ability to cook - the convenience and familiarity of instant-on burners and the sheer unbridled decadence of freshly-baked bread have made living aboard in December a much, much more pleasant experience - but the reality of burning propane has begun to set in.
The problem with propane is that for every liter of propane burned, a liter of water is released into the air. Well, technically the gasses released by the combustion - one of which is apparently hydrogen - combine with the oxygen already present and create H20, which means a damp cabin. In essence, running the propane stove every day has meant that the moisture level in the aft cabin is far higher than in the forward cabin, and that is manifesting as foggy windows, slippery soap and chocolate, and worst of all the beginnings of mold and mildew. This really has to stop, but the only real answers are ventilation and dry heat!
Anyhow. Things progress. More soon.
Winter Weather
I know that the weather in Vancouver last winter was considered 'mild' by most, but between the steep learning curve of diesel furnaces and a general lack of knowledge regarding boat life in colder climates I can't really say that the experience was particularly pleasant. That being said, nothing last winter prepared me for multiple days of sub-zero temperatures!
Miya and I returned from Oklahoma (she competed in the Route 66 Marathon, finishing in 5:05:24, an excellent time for a first marathon!) on Monday night, but with a -17º windchill we decided that it would probably be best to spend the night at my sister's house. When we returned in the morning, we discovered the cold had actually frozen much of the plumbing solid, destroying the new galley faucet. Fortunately the new hoses held up to the ice and the new flexible water tanks didn't freeze, so we didn't have two hundred liters of water in the bilge to contend with but it was still a nail-biting couple of days waiting for the pipes to thaw. Just to make things interesting, the follow-up to days of bitter cold was a massive (by Vancouver standards anyway) snowfall - Thursday afternoon found me digging out the snow shovel from the depths of the starboard ama and shoveling a solid six inches of snow off the decks. Shortly after I finished, of course, the snowfall turned to sleet and subsequently to rain, cleaning off the remaining snow and leaving me with a pair of dinghies full of icy water to bail out.
The rains haven't really stopped since, but that hasn't stopped us from continuing with boat projects, albeit indoor ones. I've managed (under duress) to get the diesel furnace in the forward cabin working again, a problem that required the routing of diesel fuel lines under the floorboards and rigging an electric transfer pump. Now the forward cabin is toasty and warm, though the new propane stove in the aft cabin is turning out to be not the heat source that the former diesel cookstove was. We've had to run the Honda generator for several hours each day, just to keep a pair of small electric heaters going - it's a disgustingly inefficient way to keep warm, but at least it works. I'm in the market for a second small diesel furnace.
The cold hasn't stopped Miya from continuing to turn Tie Fighter into a home, and now the aft cabin salon has received some Christmas treatment. We even have a small Christmas tree fashioned from a live rosemary plant! The salon doesn't smell like a traditional Christmas, but between the rosemary and Miya's constant baking it definitely smells delicious, a welcome change from the pervasive smell of diesel and the salty sea air.
Steering Trouble and a Windstorm
The weather this past weekend was idyllic, for the season; cold but mostly sunny. No wind meant that the nights in the Kitsilano Anchorage on English Bay were peaceful, with very little rocking save the occasional wake from a passing powerboater. The forecast however called for strong gales on Monday and Tuesday, and we were out of water anyway, so we packed up Tie Fighter and set off to finally return to False Creek.
Miya took the helm, but it was hardly ten minutes before she called out that the wheel was sticking, and that she couldn't turn to the left. I thought it was just sticking, but when I came to try it myself, the wheel was definitely not moving. We quickly threw out an anchor, and I started taking apart the binnacle to see if I could spot the problem. It was immediately obvious when I pulled at one of the steel steering cables; it came up out of the channel easily, and after a few feet of rusty, oily cable came a frayed and broken end!
The ironic part - and I'm quickly learning that the Gods of the Sea are huuuuge fans of irony - was that not even three hours earlier, Miya had been reading my copy of the CYA Basic Cruising Skills manual, from a course I took a couple of years back. Reading the section on emergency equipment, she asked specifically:
"Drew, where do we keep the spare tiller?"
I answered:
"We don't have one, baby. There's no place to attach one, and besides, we have thick steel cables for steering, they shouldn't ever break..."
Now, you'd assume that something as important as steering - especially on a boat with no emergency tiller attachment - would be rigged with stainless steel cables… but if there's one thing the Gods of the Sea like better than irony, it's assumptions. As it turned out, the single exposed section of steering cable was rigged with 3/16ths stainless steel cable, but the rest - the parts impossible to inspect, routed through the walls in rigid conduit - were rigged with regular steel cable. Which, of course, had rusted completely through after a few(?) years of living in a wet conduit.
My good friend Darren was in town on Sunday, on "vacation" from the island paradise in Malaysia where he runs a diving school, and so after a leisurely brunch we tackled the problem of routing the new stainless steering cables. We rented a large, industrial crimping tool and bought a bag of aluminum crimps, then settled in for the nightmare job of trying to thread the new cable into the old conduit. To our surprise and delight, the new cable went through the conduit without a hitch, and replacing the entire steering system (including a stopover to lubricate the turning blocks) took around two hours total.
The interesting part is that I think the steering system is actually the final, single system on the boat that I hadn't actually torn out yet. Every single system aboard has now had my hands in it, either by tearing each system out completely or just removing, cleaning and reinstalling. All of the water lines, all the hoses, the entire electrical system, the bilge pumps, the galley, the head, the lighting, the sailing instruments - everything! Only Maude (the big Yanmar diesel engine) looks more or less exactly like she did when I started, and if you've been reading this blog for a while you know that there's been a serious tonne of work done there as well.
Anyhow. The repairs went fine, and the steering is back to 100% again - even better, in fact, as now the turnbuckles turn a lot easier, and without a frayed steel cable scraping the inside of the conduit the steering wheel turns far smoother than before. We are extremely lucky that the cable snapped while we were only about 300m offshore, still in the Kitsilano Anchorage instead of out in the middle of the Georgia Straight like we were the weekend before - I'm honestly not sure how that would have gone.
For now, we're back in False Creek, and have already survived a November windstorm - though it wasn't even 40kn of wind, we only had out a single 'delta' anchor. The winds came up suddenly, jumping from a gentle 5kn breeze to a 30kn gale in under five minutes, and that was enough to cause us to drag anchor about 200m east, narrowly avoiding slamming into Erik's boat 'Solgangsvind'. We fired up the engine and tried to re-anchor several times, but dragged anchor each time, and on the third time dragging we came a little too close to 'Solgangsvind' again and drifted over Erik's anchor line. I had to quickly tie off our anchor line to a buoy and toss the whole thing overboard, because with his anchor line hooked we couldn't pull our anchor up without also pulling up his, and that would mean multiple boats drifting free in the 30kn winds - it could have been a real mess! With Miya at the helm we motored back west towards the Granville Bridge, searching for better anchor purchase.
We found a good hold just past Monk McQueen's restaurant, deploying a 35lbs CQR anchor and having that hold for an hour or so... but then suddenly the wind picked up again and we found ourselves dragging anchor east towards boats moored at the marina! I had Miya take the helm again, and with a panicked look in her eyes, trying to keep a 39' sailboat off the rocks in the dark with howling winds and driving rains lashing us, she kept the boat steady and pointed into the wind while I pulled up the anchor and attached a second anchor, a 25lbs 'fortress', to the end of the chain. This gave us a 25lbs anchor, 20' of heavy chain, a 35lbs anchor, another 20' of heavy chain and then a hundred feet of thick rope, which - after we set the anchor properly - held us solid for the rest of the night. Of course we still had the GPS anchor drag alarm set all night, but we were never woken up.
Anyhow - we're technically back in False Creek, but the boat is locked up solid while we're away in Oklahoma for the next couple of days so that Miya can run 26.2 miles in the Oklahoma marathon!




































