News From The Front
We finally managed to escape from Shelter Island!
A particularly poignant lesson I've learned in the past two weeks - well, technically I had already learned it once twice this summer, but apparently I'm either a sucker for punishment or a sucker for a "deal". The lesson is that - to borrow from Robert Asprin's 'Myth Adventures' series - when you think you're getting a deal from a dock rat, you had better count your fingers, then your limbs, then your relatives.
"Dock rats" are people who live in the boatyard or on the dock, picking up cash contracts wherever they can. Dock rats who charge cheap rates for carpentry or painting or engine work often do because they've got addiction problems, socialization problems, or are just straight-up incompetent, preventing them from working for reputable companies or starting their own. In some cases it's a combination of all three!
Anyhow. I was bitten three times at Shelter Island, hiring dock rats for labour - there were at least another three times that the work I hired them for was of excellent quality, but one carpentry job was botched utterly, one painting job went sour, and now finally my engine repair work has gone south. The technical version? When the guy reassembled my engine after replacing the head gasket, he didn't tighten down a particular lock-nut properly, and within a couple of hours of use the engine vibrated the nut loose and eventually fired a push rod up and straight out the top of my valve cover!
On a good note, despite the fact that the engine is currently not running while I await delivery of the parts from Toronto (parts cost: $15. "overnight" shipping: $85. ouch, but it beats waiting two weeks...), I feel very, very good about the engine! When we removed the head to change out the head gasket, we found that whoever it was that last changed the head gasket actually installed the wrong gasket for the engine!
I'm sure 95% of you have no idea what it means to have the wrong head gasket installed - I didn't know until very recently. The short version? The gasket was completely blocking the passages for the engine coolant, which finally explains my overheating symptoms. Ah HAH! Finally, a big, glaring reason for the problem that's been plaguing me for a solid year!
The repairs from here will be pretty easy. I've had the main part done already; finding a guy to weld a patch into the cast-aluminum valve cover. This wasn't a problem in a blue-collar fishing town – asking around at the marine stores resulted in a list of seven local guys who could do the job, sorted by price and quality of work. I chose a guy near the center of the list, and when Miya and I found him, he barely said three sentences to us from the time we explained the problem until the repaired piece was back in my hands. I asked how much he wanted for his time, and he charged me a whopping two dollars.
The rest of the repairs I think I can handle myself, there's not much to it. I've picked up a set of feeler gauges; basically a set of strips of metal, each one a specific thickness. I'll use those to carefully adjust the rockers on the top of the engine to their specific gaps, and with any luck the engine will fire up and run smoothly. I will still eventually have to convert the engine back to fresh water cooling, but I'm pretty confident that I can do that myself some weekend.
*sigh*. Well, engine repairs aside, I am overjoyed to finally be back at anchor! Miya and I limped into Steveston Harbour on Saturday night and we've spent the past few days anchored across from Steveston Landing, which is a lovely, quaint little "seaside boardwalk town". There are probably two hundred fishing boats at the public docks, then a fisherman's wharf market flanked by retirement condos on all sides. The first time I visited this neighborhood was a few months ago with Ernst, dropping off my diesel stove at Mariner's Exchange, a consignment marine store - he mentioned that Steveston Landing was a really nice place to spend a day with the significant other, wandering around the docks, taking in the sights and having a nice meal.
One milestone that might not seem like much to the casual observer but that really meant a lot to me - last night was the first night spent under the newly-installed LED anchor light - a legally-required white light at the top of the mast. No big deal, right? In the time I've been living aboard I've noticed that very few of the anchored boats have their anchor lights on at night. As a result a lit anchor light at night has come to mean to me the difference between a well-appointed, properly-maintained sailboat under the command of a skipper with a good attention to detail and a... oh, I don't know. An unoccupied boat? A derelict vessel? A scofflaw? I have always wanted to be one of the boats with their anchor light lit up at night, but between electrical problems and battery issues and just plain not having the light at the top of the mast... I haven't ever been. If I can help it, I will never spend another night at anchor without my light aglow.
The plan from here? When the parts arrive, I will finish the engine repairs and Miya and I will head back to False Creek for a few weeks. We're hoping to sail on Saturday; we're approximately 20nm from home, and if we make decent speed we can be back in Vancouver in about four hours.
What I Did On My Summer Vacation – June Edition
It's been six months since I've updated my blog, and much has changed. So much, in fact, that the sheer amount of things I have to write about has been preventing me from writing at all! I've resigned myself to the fact that many of this summer's great adventure stories will have to remain untold, and that I will just have to tell the biggest story - and in the spirit of 'worth a thousand words', I think the story is best told as a series of photographs, with a descriptive paragraph for each. There are eighty-six photographs in total, and that's after having culled and cut and edited out well over half of them. Most of these photos are lower quality, all that remains from my iPhone's 'Facebook' application.
The short version: I planned to haul Tie Fighter out of the water for a two-week intensive repair and paintjob session, and those two weeks turned into a grueling sixty-five day slog, working ten or more hours per day in the hot sun with a total of five days off over more than two months. Fortunately the weather cooperated, if you count blisteringly hot sun as cooperation...
Without further ado, I present to you "What I Did On My Summer Vacation", the June edition. If you're reading this on Facebook, I strongly suggest you visit my main blog site (http://www.disengage.ca) for the original formatting.
Given the ongoing problems with my engine overheating, I figured it was probably prudent to enlist some help with the travel from Kitsilano up to the boatyard that I'd be working in, Shelter Island Marina in Richmond, BC. They were chosen because they are the only boatyard in the lower mainland with a travelift capable of hauling out a boat the width of Tie Fighter!
My friend John Foulkes offered to give me a tow up the Fraser River with his powerboat, and so Ernst and I sailed Tie Fighter out around UBC and to the river mouth, then attached a line to John's boat (the Foulkeswagen) and headed up the river. Aside from a near miss of the banks during a daring coffee-relay mission between the two vessels, the trip was peaceful and uneventful.
I spent the night on the Shelter Island docks, then in the morning I motored up to the lifting dock...
...where I was lifted up...
...carried across the boatyard...
...powerwashed, and...
...finally set down gently on metal stands, ready to be worked on.
At this point I honestly did think that I'd only be out for a total of two weeks, but everyone who asked about it laughed when I told them my schedule and predictions of how long it would take. One guy, a fellow geek, actually recommended I take all my predictions regarding time and money to be spent, add a worst-case scenario, and then multiply it all by 'pi'. Strangely his predictions were the most accurate of anyone.
The first task was to remove the centerboard, though of course it didn't want to come out. At some point, some previous owner hit some rocks and damaged the fiberglass bottom edge of the board - the wooden centerboard absorbed seawater and swelled up, causing it to stick in the centerboard trunk. Two days, a lot of rocking, some serious leverage provided by halyards and block-and-tackle, and a bottle of extra virgin olive oil later... she came out.
Six hundred pounds of centerboard doesn't move around too easily! Ugh, three different layers of anti-fouling paint, old fiberglass, wood fibers and several years of marine growth - this piece of wood was foul. We drilled a bunch of drainage holes in the board and propped it up on wood blocks "for a few days". Little did we know, it would be there for almost two months.
One of the first major projects was to repair a "tiny, little 6-inch spot of rot" in one of the port ama bulkheads. Of course, we quickly learned that as soon as you can spot any rot, there's a lot more that you can't see... and the project turned into a bulkhead, support beams, an inside panel and several feet of decking!
My close friend Dan Ross spent a large portion of the summer out in the boatyard with me, helping to repair the boat. His work ethic and good humour kept me both motivated and sane through the long, hot days on the asphalt.
During this time I also had other friends visiting and helping quite often - here's a pic of my lovely girlfriend Miya working on the starboard bow. At first we tried to remove the old anti-skid paint with sandpaper and then with an angle grinder, but the sheer amount of work to do so was staggering. In the end, we found that methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) was the answer - the anti-skid paint dissolved under the solvent!
We also removed the mast and rigging, both so that I could inspect and upgrade the mast head equipment and so that we could get access to the centerboard trunk, the largest and most complicated rot problem of all...
Above you see the mast step, which essentially collapsed as soon as I applied a little pressure to it. I'm very fortunate that it never collapsed on me while I was at sail, though I'm pretty sure that I would have had problems if I'd left this project for another year.
As the Canada Day weekend approached, bringing June to a close, the weather forecast showed a prediction of rain. With a quick run to Home Depot for lumber and a tarp, we built a rain cover over the worksite - which had the side effect of giving us some much-needed shade on what would prove to be the hottest days of the summer.
And so ended the month of June. I'll try to add the subsequent posts, with the photos from July and August in a timely fashion, but my world seems to be accelerating currently, so no promises.
Long Night
Well, that wasn't so bad after all - I mean, I didn't get hardly any sleep, but I did make it through ok.
Watching it now I can see that it's really hard to tell the height of the waves in a 2D video - next time I guess maybe I should get lower to show some perspective. Suffice to say that at the peak of the storm the occasional wave was breaking up onto my deck, which is unnerving at the best of times, but twice as scary at 3am when everything is cold and black.
Because Tie Fighter is a trimaran she is not vulnerable to the severe rolling, or 'heeling', that a regular sailboat would see in a storm like this. Instead she jumps to the top of each wave, but due to the anchor line pulling her into the wind she often cannot ride gently down the other side as she'd like. In a strong wind, her bows point anywhere from 90º off of the wind, and when she's pointed directly into the wind she'll sometimes ride to the top of a wave and SMASH her bows down into the trough of the next, pressing me bodily into my foam mattress.
Due to their width, multihulls are much more vulnerable to "corkscrewing" in a wave system; this means that one bow will head up the incline of a wave, followed by the stern, followed by the other stern, followed by the other bow, while the first bow and stern are already on their way down the other side of the wave. Think of a bowl of soup, and imagine dipping the edge of the bowl in a circle, causing the soup to slosh in a circular wave. Now imagine that you are the soup. Corkscrewing is hell for people with motion sickness! Nights like last night make me realize just how phenomenally lucky I am that I don't get seasick.
Engine repairs have jumped up on the priority list, yet again. I think it's time to just have the engine pulled out and overhauled; it's something that I really need to be stable, and currently it just isn't. I'm now hunting for a boatyard that will do this for me, ideally one that will let me hang around and watch.
Back from Hiatus
Judging by the comments, emails and in-person needling at parties and social events, it would seem that people do in fact read my blog. I'm flattered and encouraged, and I apologize for the quiet stretch; it's been about a month and a half since my last update, and that one wasn't of much interest anyway. This posting should mark the end of that dry spell and a return to a semi-regular posting schedule.
So, uh... where have I been?
View March 26th 2010 in a larger map
I'm anchored about 300m west of Kitsilano Beach, where I've been since February 1st. There are no regular police patrols to worry about, the marine traffic is low, the people are friendly and the neighborhood is pleasant, if a bit homogenized for my tastes, and perhaps a bit remote from most of my regular haunts. The scenery is good, and I peacefully weathered the collective insanity that was the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Games without incident. I've technically been "legal" to return to False Creek for just over two months now, but in all honesty I've been quite enjoying the change of scenery; all things considered, living on Kits Beach is quite lovely and I haven't felt any strong drive to return to False Creek. I will very likely return to "my spot" near the Cambie Bridge soon, but I am not in any particular rush.
I was told that anchoring out here would get very unpleasant if the weather turned foul, but in reality the only time it's bad is when the wind comes from the west - there's reasonable shelter from the north, east and south, but the open ocean is to the west, so even a light breeze can build up a wave system. Rowing back home to Tie Fighter can be somewhat exciting when the wind is blowing hard and the waves are 50cm or more and breaking onto the beach! The first time I tried to row home during a westerly blow, as soon as I pushed off the shore the rowboat was pushed sideways by a wave, where another breaking wave caught her and nearly dumped me completely over, right back onto the beach. Two or three more waves broke into the dinghy in that row home, and by the time I reached Tie Fighter there was 15cm or so of water around my feet. Since then I've been making a point of using a massive yellow drybag backpack that my friend JP gave me - whenever the weather report looks dubious I replace my usual Chrome cycling bag with the drybag. I'm certain this practice has saved my laptop from getting wet at least twice.
Gathering potable water was a big question for a while - during the Olympics, my usual water fill-up spot, just under the Granville Bridge, was blocked by a barge holding a three-story restaurant. I never did figure out exactly what the point of it was, but the last time I sailed past there were people seated at a table in the window, being served lunch by a waitress; all three waved at me as I went by. I have been living out of a set of five 4l water jugs for... oh, it must be about three months now. I fill them up once a week or so; I used to use the faucet on the side of the government building near the Cambie Bridge, but now I've been using one on the side of the Watermark Restaurant on Kits Beach. The restaurant has "security" faucets, which require a special tool to open an access panel and the same tool to turn the water on and off; neither the panel nor the faucet are any match for my trusty Leatherman tool. Before I figured out the security panels, I had been skulking around in the alleys of Kitsilano looking for an unprotected faucet and feeling somewhat scandalous.
Honestly though, the two biggest problems about living on Kits Beach are both related to the beach itself. For one, there's really no place to lock my dinghy, so every time I go ashore I have to drag the dinghy bodily up over the tideline. At low tide, the tideline is a 150m slog uphill in wet sand, dragging a 90kg rowboat, a backpack and a bicycle - some days I have to do this three or four times, and almost every time it's just a warmup for a long, fast bikeride. I figure this makes up for not renewing my gym membership.
If I leave the dinghy overnight on the beach overnight in good weather, I have to worry about drunken idiots trying to steal it for a joyride. They usually abandon their mission after they realize the oars are padlocked together and to the boat, but twice now the dinghy has been dragged below the tideline before being abandoned. If I had been another few hours before returning, the dinghy would most likely have washed away, leaving me with a choice of calling in a couch-favour from a friend, a cold, wet sleep on the beach, or a very cold swim home. This won't be as big a problem in the summer - in fact I'm considering the idea of swimming to and from the boat just for fun.
In the daytime the dinghy faces a completely different problem; several times now I've returned to the beach on warm, sunny afternoons to find children playing in my dinghy. This doesn't bother me in the slightest in principle, but for the fact that the universal game to play with a boat found on a beach appears to be "See How Much Sand We Can Pile Into The Rowboat", followed closely by "Appropriate The Bailing Bucket As A Beach Toy, And Lose/Bury/Keep It". I don't remember these games from when I was a kid, but just for your own reference my dinghy is *very* difficult to effectively clean sand out of, and making a bailing bucket out of an old laundry detergent container has the important prerequisite of first owning laundry detergent. If you are the sort of person who owns laundry detergent, I would be much obliged if you would save the jug for me.
The second problem is the sand itself - it gets in everything! Regardless of how much is in the dinghy, walking across the wet beach my shoes are completely coated in the stuff. I track sand into Tie Fighter on my shoes, then from the salon into the bedroom on my socks, then into my bed on my feet. I have sand in my bed. Do you know what it's like to have sand in your bed? In March?
The engine situation hasn't changed even a little bit. There are three bottles of C-L-R sitting on my navigation table, and one of these afternoons (perhaps tomorrow, actually) I should take the time to run it through the engine block just to see how it fares. I will likely need to use several plastic buckets and re-route one or more of the engine water pumps to get the C-L-R into the appropriate engine chambers. It could get messy.
I did take some time to try to diagnose the problem a little further, and I'm starting to think that at least part of the problem was just that the thermostats had corroded into a partly-open state. I've got a new set of thermostats in there now, but given that they're still in raw water I suspect that I'll have to replace them yet again before I can call the engine "maintained". I still have to convert Maude back to antifreeze cooling and get the electronics all hooked up properly, so that I can have alarms and warning buzzers and gauges on the engine again. Soon, Maude, soon.
Anyhow. Hiatus off. More regular updates to come. I promise.
A Quick One
Well, I made it out of False Creek. I can't exactly say I made it unscathed, as I managed to somehow burn out (part of) my exhaust system again - but at least I'm out, and out of the immediate danger of being towed away and impounded by the VPD. Instead, now I am broken down at anchor about 300m due west of the Maritime Museum, bobbing around in the wake of every ship that enters or leaves False Creek, and potentially in danger should the weather turn foul. Tomorrow I will be picking up a few replacement parts that will help get me up and running again and over to a slightly more comfortable spot.

completely unrelated: Friday morning I was woken up by yet *another* hovercraft. how awesome is this photo!?
I think I actually know what's going on now. At some point, X minutes after pushing the engine hard, the cooling water ceases to flow into the exhaust and the superheated exhaust burns a hole in the tubes. There are a pair of thermostats that redirect the water flow from the exhaust manifold and into the main engine block once they heat up, though the water should then flow into the exhaust manifold and out the exhaust. I now suspect that the engine block has become fouled with calcium scale, and now water no longer flows through it. Fixing this will likely require a heavy-duty descaling solution, or perhaps straight-up muriatic acid. It's a touchy procedure, but there is hope - I may have finally sorted out a way to barter myself some time with a proper diesel mechanic!
More soon. I simply have too much work to do to write proper, long blog posts right now.
UPDATE: Swapped in an edited version of the hovercraft shot, with levels and curves tweaked by Jason Sims. Nice one!























